By Aaron Allen, The Seattle Medium
In Seattle’s Central District, the stories of families and businesses are deeply intertwined with the history of the neighborhood itself. For more than 50 years, Ms. Helen’s Diner was a cornerstone of this history, serving as a hub for the Black community and a gathering place for culture, connection, and activism.
Founded in 1970 by Helen Coleman, the restaurant has long stood as a symbol of resilience and community. Today, Coleman’s daughter, Jesdarnel Henton affectionately known as “Squirt,” is leading the charge to preserve this legacy and share it with future generations.
“I hold dearly to what she [Helen] told me all the time,” says Squirt. “Wherever she was — whether catering or with the restaurant doors open — Mom said she was creating an oasis of community. I’d ask, ‘Mama, what are you doing today?’ and she’d say, ‘Girl, I’m feeding America.’”
Ms. Helen’s first opened on the northwest corner of Union and 23rd Avenue and quickly became a focal point of the Central District. It was a place where families gathered after church, leaders strategized to improve the lives of Black Seattleites, and even prominent figures from outside the community sought out its comforting soul food. Civil rights activist Eddie Rye recalls the restaurant as a hub of Black excellence and organizing.
“[Ms. Helen’s] certainly was the place to be,” Rye said. “You’d see a white elected official being escorted in to have lunch with the brothers from the neighborhood. Demonstrations would start or end there, and a lot of strategy meetings were held there as well.”
Squirt remembers her mother saying, “If I had a dime for every meeting that took place in Helen’s Diner, I’d be a millionaire.”
In the 1980s, Ms. Helen’s relocated across the street to the Coleman Building, allowing the business to expand while maintaining its close ties to the community. Squirt recalls her mother’s unrelenting work ethic during this period.
“My mother’s work ethic was super strong,” Squirt said. “Mr. Bob Porter came in and asked her if she wanted to take over his space at General’s Barbecue. He was shutting it down and wanted to give her the opportunity. So, we went into that space, and that’s how Ms. Helen’s Soul Food was born again.”
During the 90’s and early 2000’s, the Central District underwent significant changes as gentrification displaced thousands of Black families and reshaped the neighborhood. For Ms. Helen’s, these changes brought challenges but also opportunities. As Helen began stepping back from the business, Squirt took on greater responsibilities, expanding the restaurant’s reach through catering and introducing the legacy of Ms. Helen’s to new audiences across Seattle.
Over the years, Squirt’s catering business flourished, attracting clients from diverse communities who appreciated the authenticity and flavor of the restaurant’s soul food. Fast forward to today, and Squirt has found a new home for Ms. Helen’s thanks to one of her clients, Harley-Davidson in Renton, who was so impressed that they recently offered her a café space on their property. The move proved to be a turning point for Squirt, allowing her to re-establish the restaurant, as Ms. Helen’s Bistro, in South King County area, where many her former patrons and resident of the Central District, who have found memories of Ms. Helen’s, have relocated.
“My faith is where my help comes from,” Squirt said. “With the help of people in this community, I’ve been able to sustain this place, this business. It’s still a presence in the neighborhood and expanding. Now, I get calls from people in Ballard, Bellevue, and even downtown Belltown. These are the kinds of things that are really rewarding because everyone gets a chance to sample what I do, and I’m a service to each community.”
According to Squirt, the relocation was just as a business opportunity but it was also a way to preserve her mother’s legacy in a changing landscape.
“For me, it’s about keeping the legacy alive and showing the next generation what’s possible,” Squirt said. “No matter where we go, the history stays with us. It’s in the food we serve, the stories we tell, and the people we bring together.”
The cultural significance of Ms. Helen’s Soul extends far beyond its food. It has always been a reflection of the resilience of the Black community in Seattle. By continuing the business, Squirt ensures that the restaurant remains a testament to the Central District’s vibrant history. She also believes in adapting the legacy for a modern audience while staying true to the foundation her mother built.
Rye emphasized the importance of preserving iconic businesses like Ms. Helen’s, not only for the Central District but also for future generations to understand the vibrant history of Seattle’s Black community.
“The importance of keeping legacies alive is paramount,” Rye said. “It has to be shared with folks who weren’t around in those days. They need to have some concept of what the community and its iconic Black businesses looked like.”
Squirt shares this vision and works tirelessly to pass on the values and traditions of her family to future generations. She is committed to making sure that the stories and memories associated with Ms. Helen’s Soul Food continue to inspire others.
“As long as there is a remnant of all of us who were present during those times, we work to keep it alive,” Squirt said. “I don’t care where we go in the greater area—you can never take away the history from us. We keep it alive by telling our story and making sure this generation understands how vibrant our businesses were back in the day.”
Through her dedication and determination, Squirt has kept the spirit of Ms. Helen’s alive while expanding its reach to new communities. For her, the restaurant is more than just a business; it is a living legacy that honors her mother’s vision and uplifts the rich history of Seattle’s Black community.
“My mother always said she was feeding America, and that’s what I feel like I’m doing now,” Squirt said. “Through the food, we’re keeping her spirit alive and sharing a little piece of the Central District’s history with every bite.”