Ina Garten, the wildly popular cookbook author and TV personality, took the stage before a sold-out crowd at the Segerstrom Center for the Arts in Costa Mesa this past weekend to talk about her newly released, bestselling memoir, “Be Ready When the Luck Happens.”
The conversation was moderated by actor and comedian Julia-Louis-Dreyfus, a choice that seemed spotless. On a recent episode of Garten’s TV show, “Be My Guest” (Food Network and streaming on Max), the two had a joyous time at Ina’s house, frosting a decadent chocolate cake and finished the final scene with wide grins, chocolate cake pressed on their front teeth for both to appear happily toothless.
After 13 bestselling cookbooks, why write a memoir? Garten explained that she had put off writing it for a long time, but her collaborator Deborah Davis talked her into it, telling her that someone was going to write it, and it might as well be her.
The writing process brought back memories. She said the experience made her recall how unhappy she had been while working at the White House, drafting nuclear energy policy. She took a “crazy chance” and, responding to an ad in the New York Times, bought the Barefoot Contessa food store in the Hamptons for $20,000. She knew nothing about the business, but her husband Jeffrey encouraged her. Long hours of hard work, talent, and creativity made it a success.
The onstage dialogue chronicled decades of personal challenges and adventures including childhood trials and career twists, all delivered with grace and purpose. The adoring audience broke in from time to time with cheers and applause. The response was especially exuberant when she addressed how she develops recipes for her cookbooks.
Starting with an idea, perhaps a remembered flavor of something she wants to tweak, she prepares the dish as many times as it takes to perfect it. The next step is crucial. She hands over the recipe to her assistant for a road test and watches as the dish is prepared. That way she sees where she needs to change or add words to make every step of the preparation flawless. Somehow, she made it sound effortless and exacting at the same time.
Concluding the evening, in a cheerful tone, she expressed that working on the memoir clarified for her that the things she did because she loved doing them were the makings of her life. Her luck.
The crowd that filled Segerstrom Hall left satisfied with the event.
“Ina is amazing,” said Nadia Quiros, who drove from her home in San Diego to attend the performance. “She is real. She makes great cocktails. And I love having her cookbooks to use to cook for my book club. Every dish is special.”
Here are three of the recipes that Ina mentioned in her memoir:
Chicken Parmesan with Arugula Salad
Ina’s irresistible take on Chicken Parmesan is part of my often-used repertoire. She serves the chicken with a tasty arugula salad dressed with fresh lemon vinaigrette. She wrote that adding the greens is “the way Italians do with a veal Milanese, to give it more texture and flavor.”
Yield: 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 extra-large eggs
1 1/4 cups seasoned dry breadcrumbs
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
Unsalted butter
Good olive oil
Salad greens for 6, washed and spun dry (arugula or mixed baby greens)
Lemon Vinaigrette: Mix together 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (about 2 lemons), 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Optional garnish: drained capers, see cook’s notes
Cook’s notes: A garnish of drained capers is optional. I started adding them at the request of a caper-loving pal.
DIRECTIONS
1. Pound the chicken breasts (between two sheets of plastic wrap or wax paper) until they are 1/4 inch thick. You can use either a meat mallet or a rolling pin (in a pinch, the bottom of a saucepan will work).
2. Combine the flour, salt, and pepper on a dinner plate. On a second plate, beat the eggs with 1 tablespoon of water. On a third plate, combine the breadcrumbs and 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese. Coat the chicken breasts on both sides with the flour mixture, then dip both sides into the egg mixture and dredge both sides in the bread-crumb mixture, pressing lightly.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large sauté pan and cook 2 or 3 chicken breasts on medium-low heat (do NOT use high heat — you will regret it) for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until cooked through (meat should have an internal temperature of 165 degrees). Add more butter and oil and cook the rest of the chicken breasts. Toss the salad greens with lemon vinaigrette. Place a mound of salad on each hot chicken breast or serve chicken atop salad (if you wish, top chicken with some drained capers). Serve with extra grated Parmesan.
Source: Adapted from “Barefoot Contessa Family Style” by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter, $35)
Ina’s Coconut Cupcakes
Garten wrote about these delicious cupcakes in her first book proposal, explaining that no one can resist them. The description was correct. At my house the recipe turns out 22 large cupcakes and they disappear quickly.
INGREDIENTS
3/4 pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature
2 cups granulated sugar
5 extra-large eggs at room temperature
1-1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1-1/2 teaspoons pure almond extract
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk
14 ounces sweetened, shredded coconut, divided use
Cream Cheese Icing (recipe follows)
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. With the mixer running on low, add the eggs one at a time, scraping down the bowl after each addition. Add the vanilla and almond extracts and mix well.
2. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In three parts, alternately add the dry ingredients and the buttermilk to the batter, beginning and ending with the dry. Mix until just combined. Fold in 7 ounces of coconut.
3. Line two muffin pans with paper liners. Fill each cup to the top with batter. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until the tops are brown and a toothpick comes out clean. Allow to cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Remove to a baking rack and cool completely. Frost with cream cheese icing and sprinkle with the remaining coconut.
Source: “The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook” by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter)
Cream Cheese Icing
Yield: Enough to ice 18 to 22 cupcakes
INGREDIENTS
1 pound cream cheese at room temperature
3/4 pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract
1-1/2 pounds powdered sugar, sifted
DIRECTIONS
1. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, blend together the cream cheese, butter, and vanilla and almond extracts. Add the powdered sugar and mix until smooth.
Source: “The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook” by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter)
Fresh Basil Frittata
At one point in her Barefoot Contessa ownership, Anna Pump and Ina almost became business partners. Pump ended up owning a specialty food store, Loaves and Fishes, in Bridge-Hampton. They remained friends and did catering jobs together in the winters. This frittata recipe is from one of Anna Pump’s cookbooks (“Loaves and Fishes Cookbook”) and Ina includes the treasured formula in her memoir.
Yield: 10 to 12 servings
INGREDIENTS
Soft butter for greasing pan
3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
15 large eggs
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, melted
3 cups whole milk ricotta cheese
1 1/2 pounds Gruyere cheese, grated
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 1/4 cups chopped fresh basil
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 12-by-17-inch rimmed sheet pan with 1-inch tall raised edge. (My sheet pans have edges that are just barely 1-inch high, so I took 1/2 cup of batter out and baked it in a separate custard cup — I was afraid of an overflow.)
2. Place flour, baking powder, eggs, and butter in the bowl of an electric mixer. Using the paddle attachment, beat the mixture on medium speed until well blended, stopping to scrape down sides and bottom of bowl as needed. Add ricotta, Gruyere, salt, pepper, and basil. Mix enough to blend.
3. Pour batter into buttered sheet pan. Bake 40 minutes, or until the frittata is set and browned. Serve at room temperature.
Source: Adapted from “Be Ready When the Luck Comes” by Ina Garten (Crown)